Kona Origin

Field Notes: 11/01/24

Kona, Hawaii

White Nene Coffee Roasters

We land at KOA midday. No shadows except for those directly underfoot. The black tarmac gives way to the lava black walls of Kona International's web of hales. I look out the window to see stairs rolling up to the left wing. Weathered clips of old Hawaii play in my head. Aloha oe, aloha oe, until we meet again.

We're set to meet an old friend and incredible barista/roaster, Mark Kove of White Nene Coffee Roasters. He's pointing us in the right direction for experimental Konas.

We head straight to Holualoa. Mark treats us to some great coffee and tells us of a couple farms that he wants us to check out. One sticks out. Yeast fermentations, hand picked, at elevation. Let's go!

We turn off the main upcountry road onto a steep, almost vertical, farm road and park next to a processing facility. Ten foot tall coffee trees climb the hillside in front of us. Row after row of roots grapple the descending soil while their branches stretch toward the sun like a child freshly awoken. When I open the door sweet tangy ferment fills my lungs. Like a song.

Kraig Lee greets us warmly with a hand shake. We walk the trees and then the processing facility. He explains their hunger for learning, their curiosity, their champagne processing, their multi-session harvesting. All that's left is to taste.

Surely the taste won't match the experience. Surely the first farm we visit isn't the best farm in Kona.

Kraig invites us to his house on the farm and brews up a few different coffees. Extra Fancy, Mokka, SL34. They're all great. One is incredible. It sings a melody.

I turn to my friend, This is the best coffee I've ever had.

- RH